Kelantan, Kota Bharu

Kota Bharu (also Kota Bahru or Kota Baru) is the state capital of Kelantan, on the east coast ofpeninsular Malaysia. Many travellers simply pass through on their way to the Perhentian Islands, but those who spend a few days in KB have the chance to go to some of the museums mentioned below, eat some delicious food, look at a unique style of traditional architecture, and get a little bit of the feel of a city that has an interesting cultural identity all its own.

Understand

Kota Bharu is a very socially conservative city in a state ruled by the Islamic Party of Malaysia (PAS). Be respectful of the cultural and religious sensibilities of its primarily Muslim inhabitants. There is no need for non-Muslim women to wear a tudung (scarf over the hair), but both men and women should consider wearing clothing which covers their torso completely. Also, be prepared for breaks to be taken in many places, including the Pasar Malam (Night Market) during Islamic prayer times.

Get in

By plane

Kota Bharu's small but new and efficient Sultan Ismail Petra Airport (KBR) in Pengkalan Chepa currently receives flights from Kuala Lumpur provided by Malaysia Airlines  and budget carrier AirAsia . Advance bookings especially for AirAsia can be very cheap (with best promotional fares you can end up flying cheaper than going by bus, if you have no check-in luggage).

Firefly , offers seven direct flights between Kota Bharu and Kuala Lumpur via Subang Airport and daily flight to Penang. It's also the first airline to connect Kota Bharu to the southern city of Johor Bahru. Prior to this, most people would make the trip by car or a 10-hour bus journey.

Getting to/away: The airport is 20 minutes from the city centre by taxi (fare is RM40 as of January 2012). You can also catch a City-Liner bus No. 9 from the local bus station in the city centre (1.80RM, hourly, from 7AM to 7PM, duration c. 20 minutes).

By train

The nearest railway station to Kota Bharu is at Wakaf Bharu, some 6.5 kilometers away from the city center. You can catch public bus No 19, 27 or 43 (Fare RM 1.50, runs from 7.00AM to 7.00PM) from Kota Bharu Central Bus Terminal to get there or just ask your hotel/guesthouse to arrange a taxi for you (RM35-40, @ Feb 2011). The official taxis at the station have a rate sheet.

Trains run on the Jungle Railway to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. One attraction is the Jungle Train with its Shuttle train service that does stop at almost every station between Tumpat and Gemas, allowing you to enjoy close-up contact with local people as the train travels through the heart of Peninsular Malaysia. The name "Jungle Train" is a misnomer: there is little if any jungle along the route. This is because the jungle has been replaced by palm trees - thousands of them. Beginning July 2012, there are four Day trains (Three Shuttle trains and One Express train) and two Overnight trains (both Express trains) making stops at Wakaf Bharu Station on their way southbound. For northbound direction, all the services terminate at Tumpat station, just a station beyond Wakaf Bharu. However, it is advisable to check the "KTM" (Malaysian Railways) timetable for any changes on this schedule.

Day Train

From Wakaf Bharu station: Two Shuttle trains No 81 and 85 depart from Wakaf Bharu Station at 04.08AM and 02.17PM respectively take you on board down south to their terminus at Kuala Lipis while another Shuttle train No 83 departs at 08.04AM only terminate at Gua Musang. The Express train No 15 (Sinaran Timur) however, will take you further south to Johor Bahru and Singapore via Gua Musang, Kuala Lipis, Jerantut and Gemas. This train departs from Wakaf Bharu Station at 07.16AM and reaches Woodlands CIQ Station in Singapore at 09.20PM. If you want to go toTaman Negara National Park, you may board this train and deboard at Jerantut.

To Wakaf Bharu station: The same train services with different train number may also get you into Kota Bharu through Wakaf Bharu station. Shuttle train No 82 and 86 that departs from Kuala Lipis, arrives at Wakaf Bharu station at 12.33PM and 08.43PM respectively. Another Shuttle train No 84 that departs from Gua Musang, arrives at Wakaf Bharu Station at 05.14PM. The Express train No 14 (Sinaran Timur) departs from Woodlands CIQ station in Singapore at 05.30AM, also arrives at Wakaf Bharu station at 06.52PM.

Overnight Train[edit

From Wakaf Bharu station: One Express train No 29 (Senandung Wau) will take you to the capital city of Malaysia,Kuala Lumpur. This train departs from Wakaf Bharu Station at 07.02PM and reaches Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station at 07.55AM on the next day. Another Express train No 27 (Senandung Timuran) will take you down south to Johor Bahruand Singapore. This train departs from Wakaf Bharu Station at 08.47PM and reaches Woodlands CIQ Station at 10.15AM on the next day.

To Wakaf Bharu station: The same train services with different train number may also get you into Kota Bharu through Wakaf Bharu station. The Express train No 28 (Senandung Wau) that departs from Kuala Lumpur Sentral station at 08.30PM, arrives at Wakaf Bharu station at 09.21AM on the next day. Another Express train No 26 (Senandung Timuran) that departs from Woodlands CIQ station in Singapore at 07.00PM, arrives at Wakaf Bharu station at 08.44AM on the next day.

Other trains

• Malayan Tiger: This is the brand new service introduced by "KTM" (Malaysian Railways) in late 2011. This train is using special coaches donated by the Japanese Government. As of July 2012, this train is operating thrice weekly between Tumpat and Johor Bahru. This train departs from Wakaf Bharu Station at 05.18PM every Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday and reaches Johor Bahru Sentral station at 07.20AM on the next day. On the opposite direction, this train departs from Johor Bahru Sentral station at 10.30PM every Monday, Wednesday and Friday and arrives at Wakaf Bharu station at 01.11PM on the next day.

• To Thailand: There are no train services directly into Thailand. You will have to catch bus No 29 from Kota Bharu Central Bus Terminal to Rantau Panjang and cross the border into Sungai Kolok and proceed from there. The morning train up to Bangkok currently departs Sungai Golok at 11.20AM.

By bus

The state-run SKMK and Transnasional is the largest bus company, and runs all the city and regional buses, as well as most of the long-distance buses. It operates from the central bus station (city and regional buses) and the Langgar bus station (long-distance buses). All the other long-distance bus companies operate from Jalan Hamzah external bus station. On arrival in Kota Bharu some of the buses will drop you at the central bus station , but they don't depart from there. Transnasional is the easiest to deal with, as it has ticket offices at all the bus stations. Long-distance departures are from Langgar bus station but, just to make thing confusing, a few evening buses also go from central bus station. Ask which station your bus departs from when you buy your ticket, and book as far ahead as possible, especially for theButterworth and Penang buses. There are several buses to Butterworth (RM30 , five or six hours), the buses to Penang(RM34.70 , six hours and 15 minutes) with one long stop (60-75 minutes) at Gerik. Buses to Penang leave in the morning at 9 am and in the evening. There are also regular buses to Kuala Terengganu (RM16 , three hours) and Kuantan (RM33 , six hours). Apart from that, there are also buses to Kuala Lumpur (RM40 , nine hours), Johor Bahru (RM65 , 12 hours),Singapore (13-14 hours), Melaka (RM55 , 10-11 hours), Seremban (RM48 , 10 hours) and Ipoh (RM35 , seven hours). Other destinations are Alor Setar, Jerantut, Jitra, Gerik, Temerloh, Dungun, Kemaman, Kangar and Kerteh. The other bus companies cover many of the same routes and are worth trying.

From the Thai Border town of Sungai Kolok, there is a red city liner bus 29 (departs from the central bus station) for RM5.10, which runs the 36km stretch. Just wait along the Malaysian side of the border along the covered walkway and flag it.

See

Kota Bharu itself offers many museums (Malay-language only) near Independence Square (Padang Merdeka). Several of the museums and the nearby Istana Balai Besar (the downtown Royal Palace) were built in a unique kind of elegant architecture that is well worth seeing. Arguably the most amazing building, however, is the central market (Pasar Besar). It is an octagonal building in the centre of town and houses a very colourful and active market every day. Nearby is a plain square which turns into the local food market in the evenings (Pasar Malam = Night Market).

Some visitors (particularly those interested in the history and cultural heritage of Kelantan) may also find the Muzium Negeri Kelantan (Kelantan State Museum) on Jalan Hospital 15000 of interest.

The following museums in Kota Bharu are all open from 8:30am-4:45pm every day except Fridays (when they are closed):

• Muzium Kraftangan (Handicrafts Museum [with attached gift shop selling handicrafts])
• Muzium Negeri (State Museum [see above])
• Memorial Peperangan Dunia Ke II (World War II Memorial [very small but worth a quick visit for history buffs])
• Muzium D'Raja (Royal Museum [which contains photos of the current and previous Sultans and such-like])
• Muzium Islam (Museum of Islam)
• Muzium Adat Istiadat DiRaja Kelantan (Museum of Royal Kelantanese Traditions [which contains interesting artifacts and exhibits for those interested in cultural history])

Great temples to visit in the nearby towns to Kota Bharu Town: near Tumpat there is Wat Pothivihan (huge reclining Buddha), Wat Mai Suwan Khiri (dragon Boat & standing Buddha), Wat Chonprachumthat at Kg. Dalam, Wat Machimarran Varran (sitting Buddha), and Wat Serova Buddhist Temples (Goddess of Mercy - Kuan Yin). At Bachok, there is a 100 foot high standing Buddha at Wat Phothikyan (just opened to public in June 2009) and a Kuan Yin temple facing the South China Sea nearby.

• Cultural Show at Culture Centre 3 times a week @Saturday 3.00pm-4.45pm & 8.00pm-11.30pm, @Monday 3.00pm-4.45pm, @Wednesday 3.00pm-4.45pm & 8.80-12.00pm.

• River cruise along Sungai Galas down to Dabong (2hours).

• Explore the caves at Gua Ikan,Dabong.

• Stong Waterfall, reputed to be the highest in Southeast Asia, drops from a height of about 990 metres.

• Mount Stong State Park. One of the main attractions at the state park is Gunung Stong@Mt.Stong (1,422 meters), a dome-shaped granite complex more than 500 million years old.

• Nenggiri Rafting Adventure - The selected leg of the journey covers approximatedly about 50 km, departing from Kuala Betis / Gua Cha and ends up at Kampung Star.

Do[edit][add listing]

Poly-Chlorinated Biphenyl Beach? No, PCB Beach isn't named after a nasty industrial chemical: the original name wasPantai Cinta Berahi or the "Passionate Love Beach". Alas, this was a little too daring for State Government, and now the official name is Pantai Cahaya Bulan, "Moonlight Beach".

• Go to the day and night markets. Have Nasi Kerabu for lunch at the day market and Ayam Percik at the night market, or get whatever else strikes your fancy.

• Walk around the downtown area.

• Bicycle around Pengkalan Chepa area (airport), see old WW2 British pillboxes near beach at Pantai Sabak. For history buffs only but no beach anymore due to erosion.

• Go to the beach, either PCB Beach or Irama Beach (Beach of Melody). PCB Beach has batik shops, one of which is Citra Batik about 500m from the beach. Also eat fried seafood at PCB Beach or Irama Beach with coconut water.

• Beautiful beaches at Bachok - Pantai Perkasa, Pantai Sungai Dua, Pantai Kandis.

Buy

• Hand-Printed batik clothes. Kota Bharu Trade Centre (KBTC), which offers a variety of choices, is located just beside Pasar Siti Khadijah. Other places to buy hand-printed batik include Citra Batik at PCB Beach or at the KB Mall in town (the latter has higher prices but is more convenient).

• Silverware - at the touristy museum in Kota Bharu town.

• Crystals and gemstones - you can find them at the local wet market or morning market or specialist shops. Emerald (locals call them zamrud), ruby, sapphire, topaz, tiger's eye, etc. can be found. But let the buyer beware, as there are many fakes being sold.

• Kites - forget about the wau (they are far too expensive). It is better to buy the plastic types for the kids, and these kites can really fly.

Eat

Kota Bharu is full of delicious Kelantanese food, a unique cuisine influenced by Thai and Indian styles, among others. Lots of goodies are to be found in the pasars and in coffee shops throughout the city. Chinese food is also available at various Chinese restaurants and food courts.

Among the local specialties are :

• Ayam Percik, chicken which is roasted over a wood fire and combined with coconut/peanut sauce and delicious local herbs and greens. Yati Ayam Percik (847, Jalan Long Yunus) has got to be the best around (take a bicycle from your guesthouse to arrive there, it's like 2km from the center);

• Nasi Ulam (locally called Nasi Kerabu), rice with fragrant, fresh-picked leaves and shoots, traditionally dipped into budu (fish sauce), sambal belacan (shrimp paste with hot pepper, et al.) or/and tempoyak (fermented durian sauce); You can find it in the morning at the Central Market first floor foodcourt.

• Nasi Dagang Kelantan. The slightly glutinous-textured rice is cooked in coconut, and similar to Nasi Dagang Terengganu, except the Kelantanese rice grains have a tint of maroon. Served with either a fish or chicken gravy, it is a local favorite breakfast food.

• Murtabak, savory or sweet crêpes. Murtabak Raja (Royal Murtabak) is the famous one on Jalan Bayam. They sell takeaway Murtabak and sweets, the staff is really nice and friendly.

• If you visit around Hari Raya time, don't miss the chance to try Tapai, which is sweet fermented cassava or rice, wrapped in tapioca leaves. If you like tea, wash everything down with Teh O (tea with sugar) or Teh Susu (tea with sweetened condensed milk).

• Keropok Lekor Losong (the local version is Keropok Gote), originally from Losong village and considered by Kelantanese to be the benchmark of all fish paste sausages. Comes fried or boiled. Kelantan Keropok Gote is not like Terengganu Kerepok Lekor Losong; it is thicker, about 4cm.

• Durian puffs (locally called Lepok Durian or Gelembung Buaya, they are in 3 colors: red, yellow, and green), at Kubang Pasu wet market in the mornings - for durian lovers with strong stomachs only. These delicious pastries are sold at the wet market surrounded by fish. Buy from the lady at the corner, not in the middle of wet market.

• Morning Satay, same lady, but not so delicious. Just for the experience. It also can be found in various restaurants in town. There are a few famous satay sellers like Satay Baung, Satay Suria, etc.

For Chinese food, go to :

• Jalan Kebun Sultan - restaurants opposite Public Bank, and food court

• Jalan Post Office Lama - restaurants

For Thai food, try restaurants in Taman Cemerlang, and in nearby Wakaf Bharu town

Drink

• Coconut water from the fruit, then scrape and eat the flesh

• Beer - Yes, there is beer in Kota Bharu.

Go to the Chinese restaurants where beer is served to non-Muslims only.

There are a few watering holes in KB - one has a disco feel about it (called Restoran), a few have a few "Thai drinks promoters".

However, if you are into coffee - look for cafes / kopitiams. Some have wi-fi facilities. Go to the riverside (Pelangi Mall) for a refreshing river view and freshly brewed coffee.

• Soon Lee Agency, Selling wines, spirits and beers. Address: 5565-D Jalan Pengkalan Chepa,Kota Bharu (in city center, on the way to Thai Embassy) Telephone: 09-7446689. Operating: 10:30AM-6:30PM.

Sleep

Budget

Hostels can be found in the area near the Central Market.

• Hotel Harmoni, Jalan Temenggong, beside Kota Bharu City Clock Tower, Down town KB. Rates from RM65.

• Hotel Politan, Jalan Doktor, located at Kota Bharu City Center. Near long distance bus station and taxi stand. Free WiFi & Astro TV inside rooms. Price from RM60/USD19

• KB Backpackers Lodge, office: +019-97488841, mobile: +019-9445222, (above Azam Photo), Jalan Padang Garong. The original KB Backpackers Lodge in the heart of Kota Bharu. Walking distance from the bus station, banks, central market, night market, shopping area and the Thai Embassy. Clean, spacious and friendly. Huge rooftop for relaxing. Free secure WIFI in the living room and at any floor. Can arrange trips to Perhentian Islands, Cameron Highlands, Tama Negara and other big spots. Rooms from RM25/with bathroom from RM55. Dorm RM10. Prices have gone up but still seem negotiable. Rooms not well taken care of and service is lacking from its former glory. Consider staying here only for close proximity to bus station.

• Ideal Travellers House, +60 9 744 2246, 3954F&G Jalan Kebun Sultan, access also from Jalan Pintu Pong, clean, friendly, garden tables, quiet despite being in town, tour info, public transport info in each room, wifi, internet PCs,Rooms from RM20-40, dorm RM10

• Zeck's Traveller's Inn, Jalan Sri Cemerlang, quiet, clean, tiled floors, parking, outdoor seating, reasonably close to town,10 minutes walk to Thai Consulate, tour info. Single & double RM35-RM70.

• Kota Timur, Jalan Dusun Raja, clean aircon doubles with own bathroom, furniture, clothes drying rack, and TV, great value at RM30, balanced with looking drab and being a little further to walk into town

• Lee Guesthouse , 263 Jalan KK1/9 (off Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra, old name Jalan Pasir Puteh),Bandar Baru Kubang Kerian, Kota Bharu +60 9-747-9663, email adddress:-leeguesthouse@gmail.com Clean, friendly and comfortable guesthouse. 5 minutes walking distance to the Hospital University. Free usage of internet broad band facilities and satellite television in the living room, cooking facilities available. The hotel provides airport to the Wakaf Bharu Train Staton and Central Bus Station pickup services to the guesthouse. Rack rates from RM75 to RM180.00. Can also arrange trip or boat ticket & transfer to Perhentian Island, Cameron Highlands, and Taman Negara.

• Minora Lodge is a 20min walk from the night market. Clean, variety of rooms from dorm to doubles with air-con, RM20-60.

• Royal Guest House, Jalan Hilir Kota +60 9-7430008. Formerly Safar Inn. Rates from RM110.

• Hussin Palace Budget Inn and Guest House, Jln Bayam, +6019-9961960 [mailto: siti.asmaa@gmail.com]. Great Place for Large Families. RM180 for 3 or 4 bedrooms house, no limit of occupancy. Additional bed and pillow provided with no additional charge 

• Min Homestay & House-camp, Jalan Kubang Kerian, +60139225440 . Safe, peaceful and clean village environment for small group, up to family gathering. No limit of occupancy, free extra bed. RM70 for triple-room, RM120 for connected 2- triple room & RM170 for a big house. 

• My Place Guest House,  +6013 9011 463. No. 4340-R2, Jalan Kebun Sultan (near Cosmopoint College). A friendly, clean and laid-back guest house located near Chinatown and within walking distance to the bus station and central market. Affordable double, twin and single rooms with A/C and fan. All rooms are of shared bathroom basis. Fully equipped kitchen, living hall with TV, and free breakfast. Rates from MYR 18-50 per night.

• Cerana Guesthouse, CLOSED (3/8/2014) First Floor, 3952L, Jalan Padang Garong (Next to Denai Lodge, 1 minute from Muzdalifa Fried Chicken), ☎ +609 747 02 53 (ceranaguesthouse@yahoo.com). Small, quiet guesthouse in the center of Kota Bharu. Cheap rooms and friendly staff. Some rooms have a small ensuite bathroom and A/C. The staff can arrange transfer to the Perhentian islands by minivan + boat. Some dodgy wiring and maintenance work, but a nice place overall. 30-40RM. 

• Denai Lodge, Jalan Padang Garong, next to Cerana Guesthouse. Small guesthouse with rooms for 35 RM. Unfortunetly pillows stinks, bed stinks and even with A/C it is hot in the room. Only 1 toilet/tiny shower for whole guesthouse. Good wifi. Nice staff.

Mid-range

• Azam Hotel, Beside Azam Photo, Jalan Padang Garong, +60 9-747-0508, email:  Rack rates from RM70 - RM100.

• Crystal Lodge, 124 Jalan Che Su +60 9-747-0888 crystlod@tm.net.my. 3 stars, RM100.00 onward. Standard Twin Room RM129.

• Dynasty Inn, 2865-D&E, Jalan Sultanah Zainab, +60 9-747-3000, dynasty@tm.net.my. Rack rates from RM100.

• Grand Riverview Hotel, Section 9, Jalan Post Office Lama, +60 9-743-9988 sales@grh.com.my,. RM150 onward.

• Pasir Belanda, Kampung Banggol, Jalan PCB +60 9-747-746 [mailto: info@pasirbelanda.com], . RM160 onward

• Suria Homestay Kubang Kerian, 019-3586853,. Located near Universiti Sains Malaysia. Huge bungalows for RM250 per night.

• HomeStay Lot 2561, Taman Adabi, Wakaf Bharu 0139207199/0139855517. located 5km from Kota Bharu and 300 metres from Wakaf Bharu Railway Station. Surrounded with food stall and convenience store for RM200 per night.

Splurge

• Hotel Perdana, Jalan Mahmud +60 9-748-5000, sales@hotelperdana.com.my,. 4 star, RM220 onward.

• New Pacific Hotel, Section 26, Jalan Pengkalan Chepa, +60 9-735-1111, reservation@newpacifichotel.com.my. Rack rates from RM188.

• Renaissance Kota Bahru Hotel, Kota Sri Mutiara, Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra, +60 9-746-2233. 5 star, RM380 onward.

• Pelangi Riverview Kondominium, B-21-09, Pelangi Mall, Jalan Post Office Lama, +60 9-917-5690, [24], 4 rooms kondominium, RM200 onward.

Get out

Malaysia

Perhentian Islands (via Kuala Besut)

From the airport, train station (in Wakaf Bharu), and city you can take a taxi (45-60 min; 60-80RM) to Kuala Besut for regular boat connections to the Perhentian Islands. There is also a direct bus service to Kuala Besut Jetty - take bus 639 from the central station (6RM), the trip takes 1h30m and services by Cityliner Kelantan Bhd. leave at 6h15, 7h30, 9h00, 10h00, 11h00, 12h30, 14h00, 15h00, 16h00, 17h30, 18h30. The same company also offers slightly discounted fast boat tickets at their Kota Bharu bus station ticket counter, which costs 70RM for the return trip, instead of the normal 80RM.

Thailand

• Sungai Kolok
• Tak Bai (via Ban Taba)